A breezy winery dining room with a flexible menu and warm service.
“Tuscany it may not be but a drive to the quaint Narkoojee winery feels a million miles from the smokestacks of the Latrobe Valley power plants. The Fitzroy namesake has been sold and there are plans to expand this vine-side venture. The bright but smallish room leads to a sprawling deck and a garden dotted with curious sculptures. An aperitivo, freshly baked bread, good olive oil and, prego, you’re away. The road then forks: generous platters of antipasti, or artfully plated entrees such as soft-shell crab wedged between two slices of rosy tuna crudo, and lightly battered zucchini flowers with a tangy goat’s cheese filling. Save a piece of bread to mop up tomatoey wild boar ragu with pappardelle. Crisp-skinned roast chicken with eggs, charred lettuce and smoked ham conjures a grown-up Caesar salad. To finish, the candy man joins the party with a rhubarb assiette showcasing millefeuille, silky custard and apple sorbet”.
14/20 – The Age Good Food Guide 2017